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[title] => Čuvena konoba nekoć je bila poznata po ‘magarećem turizmu‘, danas po spizi i atmosferi: ‘Gosti nan zavire u teću...‘
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Suprotivo pričama o poslovičnoj škrtosti škoja i teškomu životu na njemu (nekoć je, doduše, takav i bio), Brač je bez sumnje otok na kojemu se može puno lijepoga vidjeti i doživjeti, ali i – dobro jesti.
U kontekstu potonjega, već desetljećima je stoga nezaobilazna "pošta" antologijska konoba "Toni" u Dolu, tom bračkom Betlehemu dva kilometra udaljenom od mora (Postira), čarobnom i netaknutom mjestu kojega je odavno Bog pomilovao objema rukama, a Doljani pozlatili vlastitima.
Jedno je to od najmanjih mjesta otoka, ekološki potpuno uščuvano skoro pa u duhu pranaselja zahvaljujući okolnosti da je prometno samodostatan, naime to je krajnja prometna točka koja završava u svojevrsnoj otočnoj slijepoj ulici (s obzirom na konfiguraciju terena, možemo komotno reći i "spiljici" iliti po bračku "spilici").
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No, vratimo se sa geografskog aspekta na onaj gastronomski. Tu je konoba "Toni" doma, i to još od davne 1968. godine!
Utemeljitelji su bili nono Toni i nona Marija, s obzirom na izbor naziva čini se da je u rečenoj konobi na snazi patrijarhat; no, to je samo privid, nona Marija uvijek je bila "capo di tutti capi", držala je tri, ponekad i četiri kantuna konobe, te zapravo radeći u njoj provela svoje najbolje godine. Tradiciju su zahvalno i predano nastavili nasljednici, pa je tako konoba "Toni" danas u dobrim rukama braće Tonča i Pave Matulića, prekaljenih ugostitelja u svojim vitalnim šezdesetima, kad su već i sami pomalo stasali u svjedoke familijarne povijesti.
Dakako, neke najstarije priče poznaju iz druge ruke, poput prvih iskustava u konobi nazvanoj po nonotu Toniju Matuliću.
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- Dol je danas u sklopu općine Postira i izvrsno povezan s tim priobalnim mjestom, cesta je dobra i asfaltirana, k tomu sa lipom šetnicom jer ima pješačke rubnike, te rasvjetu cijelim putem, kandelabre. Nekad nije bilo tako; kasnih šezdesetih do Dola je vodio jedva i makadam, bilo je zafrknuto doć do mista – podsjeća Tonči uz odobravanje brata Pave na doba recentne povijesti otoka; ironično, tada je u Dolu – težim životnim prilikama unatoč – bilo kudikamo više mještana, postojala je čak i osnovna škola, dućan s prehrambenom robom... I konoba "Toni", koja je jedina opstala od navedenih sadržaja. Danas Dol krasi ljepota i demografska polu-pustoš, doduše tu je Zadružni dom, aparat za napitke (!), te divan Kaštil Gospodnetić, potom jedan agroturizam, još jedna druga, novija konoba i ova iz naše priče, jedina koja radi u kontinuitetu kao takva od 1968. godine, zbog čega udovoljava kriteriju – štoviše, itekako zaslužuje! - biti ugošćena u sklopu feljtona "Stari gušti".
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- Šezdesetih se godina posredstvom agencije Atlas moglo konzumirat nešto šta se zvalo "magareći turizam", i bilo je vrlo popularno! Po sedamdeset ljudi bi došlo na tovarima u Dol na izlet, išlo se do nas priko mosta na dva puntižela, i onda u konobu na jednostavna jela: pršut, sir, koji slani inćun – vele braća Matulić.
Dol je danas samo na korak od mora, no nekoć je taj put bio mukotrpan, makadamski, a mnogi od starijih mještana doslovce su se – kako je to na otocima bivalo – više kupali u znoju, negoli u moru. Štoviše, mnogi nisu znali ni plivati, a konkretno u Dolu, tom "otočkom zaobalju" malo tko se sredinom prošlog stoljeća nauživao i ribe.
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- U Dol su k nama dolazili na fažol; i to ne samo obični turisti, nego i oni sa celebrity-liste, popularni glazbenici ka šta su Vice Vukov, Radojka Šverko, Zdenka Kovačićek... Oni bi dolazili na glazbenu smotru "Postirske fraje", i na fažol kod nas, uz domaći kruh što ga je mijesio moj otac, još uvijek vitalni Ivan (88). Svi su volili sist prid pun pjat u "Tonija" jer je pokojna mama Katica (nevjesta Marijina i Tonijeva) bila vrsna kuharica koja je radila u hotelima "Park" i "Vrilo" u Postira. Tako su se kroz godine i desetljeća proširili i gabariti same konobe zbog potražnje, pa se od bazične kvadrature "prelila" i na prostorije bivše uljare i rakijarnice. Ipak, govorimo o svega sedamdesetak sjedalica ukupno, unutrašnjeg i vanjskog prostora – napominju Matulići.
A taj vanjski prostor... E, to je nešto najsličnije vizurama Toscane, premda bi i Dol mogao biti referentna vrijednost u istoj konstelaciji – jedino što je manji od Toskane. Sjediti u dvoru konobe doživljaj je samo po sebi, bez obzira na godišnje doba, jutro ili povečerje. Ljepota Dola prožima sva osjetila – dakako, povoljno utječe i na ono okusa – a okusne pupoljke čitatelja jamačno će razgaliti i neka od jela kojima se domaćini ponose. Da je u pitanju fine-dining mogli bismo ih nazvati "signature jelima", no u fine-dining restoranima ljudi znaju ostati i gladni, što se sigurno neće dogoditi gostima u konobi "Toni"!
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No, prije negoli vas ogladnimo, vratimo se još malo u povijest konobe.
Dok je bio na snazi magareći turizam, ljudi su dolazili ovde i na konjima, ali više na tovarima, mazgama, mulama i ugotama (podvrste iste životinje, nap.a.). Tada bi svi tili, ovi naši lokalci, sist isprid sebe na samar zgodnu šinjorinu, fureštu mladu, lipu i u onim kratkim hlačicama. Za ove debele i starije se nitko nije puno otima – smiju se Matulići, koji su tih godina bili još dječaci.
No, bili su već voditelji posla kad su u "Tonija" godine 2011. na spizu dolazili hrvatski nogometni reprezentativci predvođeni izbornikom Slavenom Bilićem. Zapravo je teško i pobrojati tko je sve kod njih uživao u lipim bokunima, ali zna se da – ukoliko se tko zatekne u blizini – gdje vode svi dolski putevi: u konobu "Toni".
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Mnogi su se tu i vjenčali, domaći i strani supružnici, te poslije profeštali u konobi. Jedan je par iz Slovenije ispred ulaza u konobu posadio i maslinu. To su bili Ana i Tomaž iz dežele, u Dolu vjenčani 2004. godine, danas njihove maslina ima puna dva desetljeća.
- Rekli su da će stablo bit simbol njihove ljubavi, postavili su i spomen-ploču i obećali da će, ukoliko se slučajno razvedu, maslinu posjeći. Dobili smo glas da brak nije opstao; Ana i Tomaž su se razveli, ali mi maslinu ipak nismo posjekli. Bilo bi grjehota, neka raste i rađa plodove kao i do sada – mudro o biljci-uljarici zbore dva brata Bračanina.
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Dolazili su nekoć ljudi do Dola i konobe starim autobusom iz Postira. Vozio ga je Safet, Bosanac, postirski zet; danas ni taj autobus više nije "živ", ali jest Safet i – njegova punica.
Naravno, i konoba "Toni".
Posao je počeo cvasti, pak, prije četrdesetak godina, kad je do Dola "došao" asfalt. Tijekom Domovinskog rata (kojega je otok, srećom, doživio neizravno) posao staje, pa se obnavlja u poraću, u osvit nove države.
- Hotel "The View" u Postirima nam je donio puno prometa! Oni imaju dosta polupansionskih aranžmana, zato nam jako puno njihovih gostiju na smještaju dolazi na ručak. Ima i onih koji dolaze na doručak, ili kasniju večeru! Mnogi dođu samo na hrapoćušu, kafu – zadovoljno primjećuju.
Dakle, najkukusniji dio priče: hrana! U "Tonija" imaju relativno jednostavna, no sjajna jela poput brudeta, svakojake peke, lignji na kolutiće ili sa žara...
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- Tikvice na žgvacet! - veselo se u priču ubacuje Tonči Arnerić zvani Kontuš (74), susjed i prijatelj Kuće (konobe). Njegova upadica tek je dijelom šala; mnogi gosti zažele za sebe upravo ono što familija iz konobe priprema taj dan mimo jelovnika.
- Zavire u teću ili tavu, pa pitaju mogu li oni dobit malo tingula, tikvica, punjenih paprika, pečenih srdela... Ima i onih ranojutarnjih sportaša koji trče ili hodaju u prirodi u cik zore, pa u osam ujutro traže frigane srdele, vitalac, čak i pašticadu ili pečenog puha, naš lokalni specijalitet! Ugodimo ako smo u prilici jer ipak radimo od podneva. Navečer nastojimo zatvoriti oko 22 sata, radimo samo mi iz obitelji pa se sataremo previše da bi radili još i noću – napominju Tonči i Pave.
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Što se tiče slatkoga, kraljica desertnog stola je spomenuta hrapoćuša. E, tu postoji kuriozitet: dolsku autohtonu poslasticu s puno jaja, mendula, naranči i šećera spravlja – Slovenka!
- Moja djevojka Simona iz Maribora priprema hrapoćušu po tajnoj (nama dakako poznatoj) otočkoj (dolskoj) riceti. To se ne propušta kušati – ponosno će Pave Matulić.
Uistinu, hrapoćuša iz konobe "Toni" prava je slatka senzacija, i cijena je vrijedna svakog centa jer je slastica kalorična, spravljena od autohtonog repromaterijala te izvanredno ukusna!
A što vole pojesti Bračani kad se otisnu sa škoja u Split, na primjer?
Ćevape u "Katun Pauline" prije trajekta ili utakmice, sedam komada i pivica! To je navika iz mladih dana, a stara ljubav zaborava nema – nostalgično će Matulići, dva Bračanina iz najstarije konobe u Dolu.
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title=Čuvena konoba nekoć je bila poznata po 'magarećem turizmu', danas po spizi i atmosferi: 'Gosti nan zavire u teću...'
page_title=Čuvena konoba nekoć je bila poznata po 'magarećem turizmu', danas po spizi i atmosferi: 'Gosti nan zavire u teću...'
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Pavao Matuli\u0107<\/p>","
Ton\u010di Matuli\u0107 i Jerko Gospodneti\u0107<\/p>","
Ton\u010di Matuli\u0107 priprema ribu za friganje.
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Ton\u010di Matuli\u0107 soli frigaduru\u00a0<\/p>","
Osli\u0107i u bra\u0161nu<\/p>","","","","
Osli\u0107i u bra\u0161nu<\/p>","","
Frigadura<\/p>","
Frigadura<\/p>","
Frigadura<\/p>","
Frigadura<\/p>","
Frigadura<\/p>","","","","","","","","","","","","
Pavao Matuli\u0107<\/p>","
\u00a0Slovenski biljni liker<\/p>","","
Maslinovo ulje vlastite proizvodnje<\/p>","
Travarica vlastite proizvodnje<\/p>","","","","","","","","
Dol, 260124.
\nKonoba Toni u Dolu na Bracu za feljton Stari gusti.
\nNa fotografiji: iz konobe.
","
Ton\u010di Arneri\u0107<\/p>","
Pavao i Ton\u010di 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Konoba Toni u Dolu na Bracu za feljton Stari gusti.
Na fotografiji: iz konobe.
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Suprotivo pričama o poslovičnoj škrtosti škoja i teškomu životu na njemu (nekoć je, doduše, takav i bio), Brač je bez sumnje otok na kojemu se može puno lijepoga vidjeti i doživjeti, ali i – dobro jesti.
U kontekstu potonjega, već desetljećima je stoga nezaobilazna "pošta" antologijska konoba "Toni" u Dolu, tom bračkom Betlehemu dva kilometra udaljenom od mora (Postira), čarobnom i netaknutom mjestu kojega je odavno Bog pomilovao objema rukama, a Doljani pozlatili vlastitima.
Jedno je to od najmanjih mjesta otoka, ekološki potpuno uščuvano skoro pa u duhu pranaselja zahvaljujući okolnosti da je prometno samodostatan, naime to je krajnja prometna točka koja završava u svojevrsnoj otočnoj slijepoj ulici (s obzirom na konfiguraciju terena, možemo komotno reći i "spiljici" iliti po bračku "spilici").
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No, vratimo se sa geografskog aspekta na onaj gastronomski. Tu je konoba "Toni" doma, i to još od davne 1968. godine!
Utemeljitelji su bili nono Toni i nona Marija, s obzirom na izbor naziva čini se da je u rečenoj konobi na snazi patrijarhat; no, to je samo privid, nona Marija uvijek je bila "capo di tutti capi", držala je tri, ponekad i četiri kantuna konobe, te zapravo radeći u njoj provela svoje najbolje godine. Tradiciju su zahvalno i predano nastavili nasljednici, pa je tako konoba "Toni" danas u dobrim rukama braće Tonča i Pave Matulića, prekaljenih ugostitelja u svojim vitalnim šezdesetima, kad su već i sami pomalo stasali u svjedoke familijarne povijesti.
Dakako, neke najstarije priče poznaju iz druge ruke, poput prvih iskustava u konobi nazvanoj po nonotu Toniju Matuliću.
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- Dol je danas u sklopu općine Postira i izvrsno povezan s tim priobalnim mjestom, cesta je dobra i asfaltirana, k tomu sa lipom šetnicom jer ima pješačke rubnike, te rasvjetu cijelim putem, kandelabre. Nekad nije bilo tako; kasnih šezdesetih do Dola je vodio jedva i makadam, bilo je zafrknuto doć do mista – podsjeća Tonči uz odobravanje brata Pave na doba recentne povijesti otoka; ironično, tada je u Dolu – težim životnim prilikama unatoč – bilo kudikamo više mještana, postojala je čak i osnovna škola, dućan s prehrambenom robom... I konoba "Toni", koja je jedina opstala od navedenih sadržaja. Danas Dol krasi ljepota i demografska polu-pustoš, doduše tu je Zadružni dom, aparat za napitke (!), te divan Kaštil Gospodnetić, potom jedan agroturizam, još jedna druga, novija konoba i ova iz naše priče, jedina koja radi u kontinuitetu kao takva od 1968. godine, zbog čega udovoljava kriteriju – štoviše, itekako zaslužuje! - biti ugošćena u sklopu feljtona "Stari gušti".
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- Šezdesetih se godina posredstvom agencije Atlas moglo konzumirat nešto šta se zvalo "magareći turizam", i bilo je vrlo popularno! Po sedamdeset ljudi bi došlo na tovarima u Dol na izlet, išlo se do nas priko mosta na dva puntižela, i onda u konobu na jednostavna jela: pršut, sir, koji slani inćun – vele braća Matulić.
Dol je danas samo na korak od mora, no nekoć je taj put bio mukotrpan, makadamski, a mnogi od starijih mještana doslovce su se – kako je to na otocima bivalo – više kupali u znoju, negoli u moru. Štoviše, mnogi nisu znali ni plivati, a konkretno u Dolu, tom "otočkom zaobalju" malo tko se sredinom prošlog stoljeća nauživao i ribe.
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- U Dol su k nama dolazili na fažol; i to ne samo obični turisti, nego i oni sa celebrity-liste, popularni glazbenici ka šta su Vice Vukov, Radojka Šverko, Zdenka Kovačićek... Oni bi dolazili na glazbenu smotru "Postirske fraje", i na fažol kod nas, uz domaći kruh što ga je mijesio moj otac, još uvijek vitalni Ivan (88). Svi su volili sist prid pun pjat u "Tonija" jer je pokojna mama Katica (nevjesta Marijina i Tonijeva) bila vrsna kuharica koja je radila u hotelima "Park" i "Vrilo" u Postira. Tako su se kroz godine i desetljeća proširili i gabariti same konobe zbog potražnje, pa se od bazične kvadrature "prelila" i na prostorije bivše uljare i rakijarnice. Ipak, govorimo o svega sedamdesetak sjedalica ukupno, unutrašnjeg i vanjskog prostora – napominju Matulići.
A taj vanjski prostor... E, to je nešto najsličnije vizurama Toscane, premda bi i Dol mogao biti referentna vrijednost u istoj konstelaciji – jedino što je manji od Toskane. Sjediti u dvoru konobe doživljaj je samo po sebi, bez obzira na godišnje doba, jutro ili povečerje. Ljepota Dola prožima sva osjetila – dakako, povoljno utječe i na ono okusa – a okusne pupoljke čitatelja jamačno će razgaliti i neka od jela kojima se domaćini ponose. Da je u pitanju fine-dining mogli bismo ih nazvati "signature jelima", no u fine-dining restoranima ljudi znaju ostati i gladni, što se sigurno neće dogoditi gostima u konobi "Toni"!
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No, prije negoli vas ogladnimo, vratimo se još malo u povijest konobe.
Dok je bio na snazi magareći turizam, ljudi su dolazili ovde i na konjima, ali više na tovarima, mazgama, mulama i ugotama (podvrste iste životinje, nap.a.). Tada bi svi tili, ovi naši lokalci, sist isprid sebe na samar zgodnu šinjorinu, fureštu mladu, lipu i u onim kratkim hlačicama. Za ove debele i starije se nitko nije puno otima – smiju se Matulići, koji su tih godina bili još dječaci.
No, bili su već voditelji posla kad su u "Tonija" godine 2011. na spizu dolazili hrvatski nogometni reprezentativci predvođeni izbornikom Slavenom Bilićem. Zapravo je teško i pobrojati tko je sve kod njih uživao u lipim bokunima, ali zna se da – ukoliko se tko zatekne u blizini – gdje vode svi dolski putevi: u konobu "Toni".
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Mnogi su se tu i vjenčali, domaći i strani supružnici, te poslije profeštali u konobi. Jedan je par iz Slovenije ispred ulaza u konobu posadio i maslinu. To su bili Ana i Tomaž iz dežele, u Dolu vjenčani 2004. godine, danas njihove maslina ima puna dva desetljeća.
- Rekli su da će stablo bit simbol njihove ljubavi, postavili su i spomen-ploču i obećali da će, ukoliko se slučajno razvedu, maslinu posjeći. Dobili smo glas da brak nije opstao; Ana i Tomaž su se razveli, ali mi maslinu ipak nismo posjekli. Bilo bi grjehota, neka raste i rađa plodove kao i do sada – mudro o biljci-uljarici zbore dva brata Bračanina.
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Dolazili su nekoć ljudi do Dola i konobe starim autobusom iz Postira. Vozio ga je Safet, Bosanac, postirski zet; danas ni taj autobus više nije "živ", ali jest Safet i – njegova punica.
Naravno, i konoba "Toni".
Posao je počeo cvasti, pak, prije četrdesetak godina, kad je do Dola "došao" asfalt. Tijekom Domovinskog rata (kojega je otok, srećom, doživio neizravno) posao staje, pa se obnavlja u poraću, u osvit nove države.
- Hotel "The View" u Postirima nam je donio puno prometa! Oni imaju dosta polupansionskih aranžmana, zato nam jako puno njihovih gostiju na smještaju dolazi na ručak. Ima i onih koji dolaze na doručak, ili kasniju večeru! Mnogi dođu samo na hrapoćušu, kafu – zadovoljno primjećuju.
Dakle, najkukusniji dio priče: hrana! U "Tonija" imaju relativno jednostavna, no sjajna jela poput brudeta, svakojake peke, lignji na kolutiće ili sa žara...
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- Tikvice na žgvacet! - veselo se u priču ubacuje Tonči Arnerić zvani Kontuš (74), susjed i prijatelj Kuće (konobe). Njegova upadica tek je dijelom šala; mnogi gosti zažele za sebe upravo ono što familija iz konobe priprema taj dan mimo jelovnika.
- Zavire u teću ili tavu, pa pitaju mogu li oni dobit malo tingula, tikvica, punjenih paprika, pečenih srdela... Ima i onih ranojutarnjih sportaša koji trče ili hodaju u prirodi u cik zore, pa u osam ujutro traže frigane srdele, vitalac, čak i pašticadu ili pečenog puha, naš lokalni specijalitet! Ugodimo ako smo u prilici jer ipak radimo od podneva. Navečer nastojimo zatvoriti oko 22 sata, radimo samo mi iz obitelji pa se sataremo previše da bi radili još i noću – napominju Tonči i Pave.
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Što se tiče slatkoga, kraljica desertnog stola je spomenuta hrapoćuša. E, tu postoji kuriozitet: dolsku autohtonu poslasticu s puno jaja, mendula, naranči i šećera spravlja – Slovenka!
- Moja djevojka Simona iz Maribora priprema hrapoćušu po tajnoj (nama dakako poznatoj) otočkoj (dolskoj) riceti. To se ne propušta kušati – ponosno će Pave Matulić.
Uistinu, hrapoćuša iz konobe "Toni" prava je slatka senzacija, i cijena je vrijedna svakog centa jer je slastica kalorična, spravljena od autohtonog repromaterijala te izvanredno ukusna!
A što vole pojesti Bračani kad se otisnu sa škoja u Split, na primjer?
Ćevape u "Katun Pauline" prije trajekta ili utakmice, sedam komada i pivica! To je navika iz mladih dana, a stara ljubav zaborava nema – nostalgično će Matulići, dva Bračanina iz najstarije konobe u Dolu.
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Joško Šupić/Cropix
Dol, 260124.
Konoba Toni u Dolu na Bracu za feljton Stari gusti.
Na fotografiji: iz konobe.
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11. svibanj 2024 12:01
