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[title] => Uvijek ispirete tjesteninu kad je skuhate? Griješite, to smijete napraviti u samo jednom slučaju
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Postoji žestoka rasprava o tome trebate li ili ne ispirati skuhanu tjesteninu. Za neke je to samo par koraka posla: Procijedite je, isperete i poslužite. Za druge je ispiranje tjestenine čisto svetogrđe.
Zašto rasipati sav taj nevjerojatni škrob koji će se emulgirati s malo masti u prekrasan, sjajan umak? Kad sam nakon kulinarske škole radio u Osteria Morini u Sohou u New Yorku, tjestenina se uvijek pripremala à la minute (kuhala po narudžbi) i stavljala izravno iz vruće škrobne kupke ravno u tavu za umak, prenosi N1.
Iako možda imam svoju tehniku, odlučio sam se obratiti nekim doživotnim stručnjacima za tjesteninu kako bih shvatio je li ispiranje tjestenine toliko štetno kao što kažu oni koji ju ne ispiru ili postoje neki slučajevi u kojima je to savršeno prihvatljivo, piše Ariel Kanter za Simply Recipes.
Talijanska tjestenina: Nikada ne ispirati
Beatrice Ughi, osnivačica omiljenog dobavljača talijanske robe Gustiamo, nikada u životu nije isprala tjesteninu. Zapravo, kad sam je pitao o tome, rekla je da nikad nije ni čula za tu praksu.
Kada je anketirala svoje talijanske prijatelje, rekla je: “Preko telefona možete osjetiti užas na drugom kraju svijeta. Rekli su mi da se to događalo, ali vrlo rijetko u njihovim životima. To je uvijek zbog pogreške, poput presoljevanja vode za tjesteninu ili zato što su u žurbi.”
Sergio Faella — pranećak Gaetana Faelle, koji je otvorio Pastificio Faella 1907. — odgovorio je na upit strastvenim, “Nema šanse!”
Dok neki ispiru tjesteninu za hladnu salatu od tjestenine, on umjesto toga preporučuje ovo: Skuhajte tjesteninu u velikoj količini vode kako biste smanjili sadržaj škroba, zatim je procijedite, pričekajte nekoliko minuta. “Dobra tjestenina ne ide dobro onima koji su u žurbi.”
Također sam razgovarao s Vicky Bennison, producenticom viralnih videa za Pasta Grannies. Rekla je da nikad nije snimila kako netko ispire tjesteninu. “Mislim da bi to smatrali rasipanjem vode. Nekad se voda za tjesteninu koristila za ispiranje posuđa – toliko su ove dame štedljive.”
Dakle, postoji li situacija u kojoj je ispiranje tjestenine zapravo neophodno?
Rezanci: Ponekad isperite
Shvaćam da nisu svi rezanci jednaki. Zato sam se obratio svom bivšem kolegi iz Serious Eatsa Shou Spaethu. Sada je urednik u ChefStepsu i radi na kuharici za ramen koja će izaći u jesen 2024.
Njegovo obrazloženje zašto ne ispirati rezance je malo drugačije od Talijana. “Općenito govoreći,” rekao je, “izbjegavate ispiranje ramen rezanaca jer će se tako ohladiti, a ako dodate hladne rezance u vruću juhu, juha postaje mlaka.”
Uz to, Sho mi je rekao da postoje okolnosti u kojima želite isprati svoje rezance, kao za tsukemen (rezance za umakanje). “S tsukemenom morate isprati sav škrob s rezanaca kako se ne bi slijepili kada ih poslužite.”
Dakle, trebam li ispirati tjesteninu ili ne?
Dakle, kada se radi o ispiranju tjestenine, općenito, nemojte uzalud trošiti taj dragocjeni škrob – Talijani to sigurno ne čine. Ako želite napraviti hladnu salatu od tjestenine, rezance svakako možete isprati, no umjesto toga uzmite si vremena i ostavite ih da se prirodno ohlade s malo maslinovog ulja.
I ne zaboravite da svako pravilo ima svoje iznimke.
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Postoji žestoka rasprava o tome trebate li ili ne ispirati skuhanu tjesteninu. Za neke je to samo par koraka posla: Procijedite je, isperete i poslužite. Za druge je ispiranje tjestenine čisto svetogrđe.
Zašto rasipati sav taj nevjerojatni škrob koji će se emulgirati s malo masti u prekrasan, sjajan umak? Kad sam nakon kulinarske škole radio u Osteria Morini u Sohou u New Yorku, tjestenina se uvijek pripremala à la minute (kuhala po narudžbi) i stavljala izravno iz vruće škrobne kupke ravno u tavu za umak, prenosi N1.
Iako možda imam svoju tehniku, odlučio sam se obratiti nekim doživotnim stručnjacima za tjesteninu kako bih shvatio je li ispiranje tjestenine toliko štetno kao što kažu oni koji ju ne ispiru ili postoje neki slučajevi u kojima je to savršeno prihvatljivo, piše Ariel Kanter za Simply Recipes.
Talijanska tjestenina: Nikada ne ispirati
Beatrice Ughi, osnivačica omiljenog dobavljača talijanske robe Gustiamo, nikada u životu nije isprala tjesteninu. Zapravo, kad sam je pitao o tome, rekla je da nikad nije ni čula za tu praksu.
Kada je anketirala svoje talijanske prijatelje, rekla je: “Preko telefona možete osjetiti užas na drugom kraju svijeta. Rekli su mi da se to događalo, ali vrlo rijetko u njihovim životima. To je uvijek zbog pogreške, poput presoljevanja vode za tjesteninu ili zato što su u žurbi.”
Sergio Faella — pranećak Gaetana Faelle, koji je otvorio Pastificio Faella 1907. — odgovorio je na upit strastvenim, “Nema šanse!”
Dok neki ispiru tjesteninu za hladnu salatu od tjestenine, on umjesto toga preporučuje ovo: Skuhajte tjesteninu u velikoj količini vode kako biste smanjili sadržaj škroba, zatim je procijedite, pričekajte nekoliko minuta. “Dobra tjestenina ne ide dobro onima koji su u žurbi.”
Također sam razgovarao s Vicky Bennison, producenticom viralnih videa za Pasta Grannies. Rekla je da nikad nije snimila kako netko ispire tjesteninu. “Mislim da bi to smatrali rasipanjem vode. Nekad se voda za tjesteninu koristila za ispiranje posuđa – toliko su ove dame štedljive.”
Dakle, postoji li situacija u kojoj je ispiranje tjestenine zapravo neophodno?
Rezanci: Ponekad isperite
Shvaćam da nisu svi rezanci jednaki. Zato sam se obratio svom bivšem kolegi iz Serious Eatsa Shou Spaethu. Sada je urednik u ChefStepsu i radi na kuharici za ramen koja će izaći u jesen 2024.
Njegovo obrazloženje zašto ne ispirati rezance je malo drugačije od Talijana. “Općenito govoreći,” rekao je, “izbjegavate ispiranje ramen rezanaca jer će se tako ohladiti, a ako dodate hladne rezance u vruću juhu, juha postaje mlaka.”
Uz to, Sho mi je rekao da postoje okolnosti u kojima želite isprati svoje rezance, kao za tsukemen (rezance za umakanje). “S tsukemenom morate isprati sav škrob s rezanaca kako se ne bi slijepili kada ih poslužite.”
Dakle, trebam li ispirati tjesteninu ili ne?
Dakle, kada se radi o ispiranju tjestenine, općenito, nemojte uzalud trošiti taj dragocjeni škrob – Talijani to sigurno ne čine. Ako želite napraviti hladnu salatu od tjestenine, rezance svakako možete isprati, no umjesto toga uzmite si vremena i ostavite ih da se prirodno ohlade s malo maslinovog ulja.
I ne zaboravite da svako pravilo ima svoje iznimke.
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17. svibanj 2024 19:21
