SD Dojavi
OSMRTNICE
PRETPLATA
PREMIUM
stdClass Object ( [id] => 1270176 [title] => Nema do mamine juhe, ali kako je skuhati u modernoj kuhinji? Nemoguće je zapeći kapulu, a to je tek prvi problem... [alias] => nema-do-mamine-juhe-ali-kako-je-skuhati-u-modernoj-kuhinji-nemoguce-je-zapeci-kapulu-a-to-je-tek-prvi-problem [catid] => 485 [published] => 1 [introtext] => [fulltext] =>

Samo jednom sam čula da se dijete zaželilo tatine juhe, ali taj je tata ionako kuhao po maminom receptu. Uvijek, baš uvijek se zaželimo mamine juhe. Kad nas svlada fibra, kad se vraćamo s kakvog putovanja... kad se odselimo i zaputimo u vlasitit život, uvijek je prisutna ta želja za maminom krepkom, mesnom žutom juhom s domaćom manistrom. Uzalud poslije sami pokušavamo postići taj neponovljivi okus kakav se mogao dobiti samo u maminom tanjuru vrele juhe koja liječi i dušu i tijelo, ali nikad nismo zadovoljni svojim postignućem. Čak i kad u juhu stavite sve što je mama stavljala, nikad to nije ono što nas vaća u lijepe dane djetinjstva i maminu kužinu.

Kad krenete u svoj život, brzo dođe ta želja za onim okusom i nabavite meso i povrće i zapečete kapulu i čak pokušate napraviti domaću manistru, ali nikad to nije to. Mama bi nastojala u juhu staviti dobar komad mesa, da li cijelu kokoš, da li dobru juneću bržolu, kvalitetan komad govedine... a onda bi to stavila u pun, visoki lonac vode i krenula na ‘dodatke‘. Uvijek su u njezinu juhu išle dvije bogate vezice lista celera, barem jednu vezicu peršina, a uz tu zelen bi koji put dodala i ‘blago sa sjevera‘ - epih s lišćem i korijenom, ali samo kad bi familija sa sjevera poslala svježe ubrani i u vlažnu krpu zamotani da izdrži put. E, to je bio okus!

U Dalmaciji epih baš nije poznat domaćicama, nitko ga i ne uzgaja, a kad ga ne bi imala, kad bi potrošila i one zamrznute rezerve, mama je juhu poboljšavala korijenom celera, pa jednom korabicom, pa korijenom peršina, mrkvom, dobro zapečenom kapulom na ploči štednjaka, s dva-tri zrna papra, malo soli i uglavnom nikad umjetne začine i dodatke jelima. Pa kad bi se ta juha ‘nakuhala‘, nakon najmanje sat vremena - ovisno o vrsti mesa, kuhinja se zamaglila, a miris zagorene kaupule ‘pobjegao‘ iz kuhinje ... nisi mogao dočekati ručak.

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Nije bila stvar samo mirisa, nego i ugođaja, onog kućnog koji poslije želite prenijeti i u svoj novi samostalni život kad vam i vaša djeca počnu uživati u maminoj juhi, a vi niste svjesni da ste i vi postali ona ‘mama‘ čiju je juhu teško bilo nadmašiti.

Ako niste od onih koji za juhu kažu da je obična ‘vodica‘, pa tijekom godina iskustva nastojite usavršiti recept, doći ćete i do nekih novih verzija ‘jela koje liječi‘. Onda vam kolegica objavi knjigu "A šta ću danas kuvat" gdje je autorica Mia Sesartić zapisala stara solinska jela i započela, naravno s juhom, vidite da stari Solinjani u juhu stave dvije ‘dobre‘ zapečene kapule. I onda počnete i vi stavljati umjesto jedne dvije velike, što veće kapule i okus je bolji, priznajete.

No, kako su nam došle nove kuhinje, odbacili se stari štednjaci s električnim pločama i došli ovi moderni sa staklokeramičkim, došli ste u novi problem: kako zapeći kapulu? To je nepoznanica koja vas proganja, direktno na staklo-keramiku ne možete stavili luk, jer će uništiti podlogu. Probali ste i na zagrijanu grill-ploču, ali kapula ne ‘gori‘ kao na onim starinskim pločama. Čak i da kapulu stavite direktno na plinski plamen, nije to onakva zagorena kapula kakva je bila kod vaše mame. I kako uopće riješiti taj nedostatak koji postaje problem. Tko zna, neka udijeli savjet!

Oko juhe rado primate savjete, primjerice kad vam prijateljica savjetuje da kokošju juhu započnete drugačije, s uljem na dnu lonca, što vam je bilo nezamislivo, ali... Ona veli da najprije na maslinovom ulju u loncu gdje će kuhati juhu, ‘prevrne‘ komadiće piletine. Probali ste, ali dodali i svoju malu tajnu - najprije na istom tom maslinovom malo ‘prodinstali‘ naribanu mrkvu da juha bude žuta kao mamina.

I nije loše početi s komadićima piletine, krilcima, batcima, zabatcima... na maslinovom, samo je juha onda malo masnija. Nije ni premasna, ali dobro je probati za promjenu.

Domaćice nekad znaju ‘pametovati‘ oko juha i dodataka, a i svatko voli nešto drugačije. Neki ne vole intenzivan okus celerova lista, drugi u juhu stave list kupusa, treći čak dodaju cijeli krompir... Pitate li mene, kupus je kupus, nije za lijepu mesnu juhu, a krumpir će ubiti svu bistrinu. Ali, kažemo, sve je stvar okusa, samo je ipak svima najdraža mamina juha. Ona se kuha s emocijama.

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Nemoguće je zapeći kapulu, a to je tek prvi problem... 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Samo jednom sam čula da se dijete zaželilo tatine juhe, ali taj je tata ionako kuhao po maminom receptu. Uvijek, baš uvijek se zaželimo mamine juhe. Kad nas svlada fibra, kad se vraćamo s kakvog putovanja... kad se odselimo i zaputimo u vlasitit život, uvijek je prisutna ta želja za maminom krepkom, mesnom žutom juhom s domaćom manistrom. Uzalud poslije sami pokušavamo postići taj neponovljivi okus kakav se mogao dobiti samo u maminom tanjuru vrele juhe koja liječi i dušu i tijelo, ali nikad nismo zadovoljni svojim postignućem. Čak i kad u juhu stavite sve što je mama stavljala, nikad to nije ono što nas vaća u lijepe dane djetinjstva i maminu kužinu.

Kad krenete u svoj život, brzo dođe ta želja za onim okusom i nabavite meso i povrće i zapečete kapulu i čak pokušate napraviti domaću manistru, ali nikad to nije to. Mama bi nastojala u juhu staviti dobar komad mesa, da li cijelu kokoš, da li dobru juneću bržolu, kvalitetan komad govedine... a onda bi to stavila u pun, visoki lonac vode i krenula na ‘dodatke‘. Uvijek su u njezinu juhu išle dvije bogate vezice lista celera, barem jednu vezicu peršina, a uz tu zelen bi koji put dodala i ‘blago sa sjevera‘ - epih s lišćem i korijenom, ali samo kad bi familija sa sjevera poslala svježe ubrani i u vlažnu krpu zamotani da izdrži put. E, to je bio okus!

U Dalmaciji epih baš nije poznat domaćicama, nitko ga i ne uzgaja, a kad ga ne bi imala, kad bi potrošila i one zamrznute rezerve, mama je juhu poboljšavala korijenom celera, pa jednom korabicom, pa korijenom peršina, mrkvom, dobro zapečenom kapulom na ploči štednjaka, s dva-tri zrna papra, malo soli i uglavnom nikad umjetne začine i dodatke jelima. Pa kad bi se ta juha ‘nakuhala‘, nakon najmanje sat vremena - ovisno o vrsti mesa, kuhinja se zamaglila, a miris zagorene kaupule ‘pobjegao‘ iz kuhinje ... nisi mogao dočekati ručak.

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Nije bila stvar samo mirisa, nego i ugođaja, onog kućnog koji poslije želite prenijeti i u svoj novi samostalni život kad vam i vaša djeca počnu uživati u maminoj juhi, a vi niste svjesni da ste i vi postali ona ‘mama‘ čiju je juhu teško bilo nadmašiti.

Ako niste od onih koji za juhu kažu da je obična ‘vodica‘, pa tijekom godina iskustva nastojite usavršiti recept, doći ćete i do nekih novih verzija ‘jela koje liječi‘. Onda vam kolegica objavi knjigu "A šta ću danas kuvat" gdje je autorica Mia Sesartić zapisala stara solinska jela i započela, naravno s juhom, vidite da stari Solinjani u juhu stave dvije ‘dobre‘ zapečene kapule. I onda počnete i vi stavljati umjesto jedne dvije velike, što veće kapule i okus je bolji, priznajete.

No, kako su nam došle nove kuhinje, odbacili se stari štednjaci s električnim pločama i došli ovi moderni sa staklokeramičkim, došli ste u novi problem: kako zapeći kapulu? To je nepoznanica koja vas proganja, direktno na staklo-keramiku ne možete stavili luk, jer će uništiti podlogu. Probali ste i na zagrijanu grill-ploču, ali kapula ne ‘gori‘ kao na onim starinskim pločama. Čak i da kapulu stavite direktno na plinski plamen, nije to onakva zagorena kapula kakva je bila kod vaše mame. I kako uopće riješiti taj nedostatak koji postaje problem. Tko zna, neka udijeli savjet!

Oko juhe rado primate savjete, primjerice kad vam prijateljica savjetuje da kokošju juhu započnete drugačije, s uljem na dnu lonca, što vam je bilo nezamislivo, ali... Ona veli da najprije na maslinovom ulju u loncu gdje će kuhati juhu, ‘prevrne‘ komadiće piletine. Probali ste, ali dodali i svoju malu tajnu - najprije na istom tom maslinovom malo ‘prodinstali‘ naribanu mrkvu da juha bude žuta kao mamina.

I nije loše početi s komadićima piletine, krilcima, batcima, zabatcima... na maslinovom, samo je juha onda malo masnija. Nije ni premasna, ali dobro je probati za promjenu.

Domaćice nekad znaju ‘pametovati‘ oko juha i dodataka, a i svatko voli nešto drugačije. Neki ne vole intenzivan okus celerova lista, drugi u juhu stave list kupusa, treći čak dodaju cijeli krompir... Pitate li mene, kupus je kupus, nije za lijepu mesnu juhu, a krumpir će ubiti svu bistrinu. Ali, kažemo, sve je stvar okusa, samo je ipak svima najdraža mamina juha. Ona se kuha s emocijama.

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Pričetema puna nedoumica

Nema do mamine juhe, ali kako je skuhati u modernoj kuhinji? Nemoguće je zapeći kapulu, a to je tek prvi problem...

Piše Olgica Grizelj-Ivić
5. ožujka 2023. - 16:29
24430498
PREMIUM
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Samo jednom sam čula da se dijete zaželilo tatine juhe, ali taj je tata ionako kuhao po maminom receptu. Uvijek, baš uvijek se zaželimo mamine juhe. Kad nas svlada fibra, kad se vraćamo s kakvog putovanja... kad se odselimo i zaputimo u vlasitit život, uvijek je prisutna ta želja za maminom krepkom, mesnom žutom juhom s domaćom manistrom. Uzalud poslije sami pokušavamo postići taj neponovljivi okus kakav se mogao dobiti samo u maminom tanjuru vrele juhe koja liječi i dušu i tijelo, ali nikad nismo zadovoljni svojim postignućem. Čak i kad u juhu stavite sve što je mama stavljala, nikad to nije ono što nas vaća u lijepe dane djetinjstva i maminu kužinu.

Kad krenete u svoj život, brzo dođe ta želja za onim okusom i nabavite meso i povrće i zapečete kapulu i čak...

#JUHA#DOMAĆA JUHA
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19. svibanj 2024 13:32