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[title] => Bili smo u kultnom restoranu gdje su utihnula stada janjaca: ‘Ko pečenom more odolit? Ode se obrate i vegetarijanci‘
[alias] => bili-smo-u-kultnom-restoranu-gdje-su-utihnula-stada-janjaca-ko-pecenom-more-odolit-ode-se-obrate-i-vegetarijanci
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Ilirska riječ za ovcu je “delma” ili “dalma”; još jedan dokaz da je janjetina jedna od “najdalmatinskijih” živih simbola!
Ako nije pečena ili lešo, naravno.
Dakako, da bi bila prepoznata kao takva, izvorno dalmatinska, potrebno je nešto što se u svijetu suvremenih komunikacija zove “brending”. Jer, stara je mudrost da je važno “imati”, ali i “znati”. Stoga hvala Udruzi uzgajivača ovaca i koza Dalmacije koja je posredstvom Ministarstva poljoprivrede RH ishodila europsku zaštićenu oznaku izvornosti, upisanu u registar i zaštićenu na prostoru Europske unije.
---
---
Mašala, uzgajivači!
Jedno od mjesta gdje, pak, janjetina stoluje desetljećima i kojemu nije potreban nikakav brending, pa čak ni plaćeni oglas jer usmena predaja seže daleko (pogotovo ako su usta puna mesne slasti) je objekt “Vicko” u Donjem Polju, nekoć poznat i kao “Torcida”. Tamo se električni ražnjevi vrte (skoro) neprekidno, malo ih je “brenzala” jedino sad već skoro zaboravljena korona, lijepi vrag da je nosi. Ionako je izbjegavala taj imunološki moćan kutak gdje kripost za konzumenta jamči najbolja dalmatinska janjetina, od koje zdravije ništa ne postoji!
’Poginila stada i stada’
Barem ako je o ekološki proizvedenom mesu riječ.
- Poginila su u nas stada i stada, na zadovoljstvo puno ljudi. Nema ništa prirodnije od toga - smatra Jere Šuperba (46), vlasnik restorana, nasljednik ostavštine koju je (od dva stola, veli) uhodao njegov otac Vicko. Do današnjih 150 plus 150 stolova (unutrašnji i vanjski prostor), što je bilanca koja govori o ozbiljnom pogonu. Otac i dandanas radi, najviše se brine za nabavu, da ne padne ispod standarda, da ostane na visini. Jer dobar janjac osnovni je repromaterijal njihovih delicija, i ako sirovina nije dobra, nema tog začina koji će “spasiti stvar”.
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---
- Sve je odavde, nešto gonimo i ozdol, sa Paga; to bude između dvanaestog i drugog miseca, janjetina je najbolja kad meso malo uzrija. Paški su janjci slatki, malešni, sam bi ih dva-tri izija! Kad se skine janje sa cice, bude “top”, ali onda može brzo oslabit, pa to triba odmah poklat. Inače su meni osobno najdraži oni od 18 do 24 kila, to izgleda puno, al znate kako to ide. Od 24 kila janjca, kad se očisti, ostane jedanaest, a kad se ispeče, svega sedam-osam kila. Paški janjac bude zaklan sa desetak kila, eto nakon pečenja ostane par kila - bezdušno sažima Šuperba računicu koja nekim čitateljima možda zvuči barbarski, ali prosječnom mesojedu je razumljiva ta “teorija opstanka”.
---
---
Za one koji će primijetiti da “iza svakog vegana stoji razočarana baba”.
Janjci su, međutim, za života stopostotni vegani, zato u svoje meso ugrađuju svu ljekovitost travčica koje popasu, a tu - postoje važne finese.
- Mikrolokacija je važna, ne bi čovik virova koliko - podvlači Šuperba, koji za sebe voli reći da je “jedan od najvećih janjičara”.
- Na primjer, razlikuje se ona s Danila, di ima puno sočne trave, od janjetine koja je pasla na kršu, takoreć, hranila se u neimaštini. Nami je većina nabave od Utora do Benkovca, kažen, osobno mi je draže da mrvu uzrija, da je bila na travi. Stari sladokusci ne vole da “daje po mliku”, ali to je baš ka neko kušanje za iskusne. Većina ljudi ne bi ni primijetila razliku - namiguje “janjeći sommelier” Šuperba.
Drago mu je, dakako, da je dalmatinski janjac postao i službeno zaštićena kategorija pri EU registru, iako njegovu vrijednost već odavno znaju on i njegovi kolege pečenjari i restorateri. “Vicko” (po ćaći), ex “Torcida” postoji, naime, već 35 godina, a otprije nekog vremena gostiona (pardon, restoran) je “prišla cestu” pa se preko puta kao ugostiteljska ekstenzija nalazi sala za vjenčanja “Ave Marija”.
---
---
Pašteta od ‘ladnog mesa
Naravno, janjetina na svakojake načine, pogotovo ražanj, specijalitet je kuće Šuperba.
- Imamo mi svašta: lešo, normalno, janjeće tripice, dolče garbo, svega blaga. Ranije smo radili čak i janjeću paštetu od mesa šta ostane, jer kad se oladi, ne valja, u stvari valja - ali to ljudi ne doživljavaju. Ali (vrući) ražanj je ražanj. Po meni, ništa slađe na ovom svitu nije od paprčnjaka s ražnja - napominje.
Pitamo ga zašto se baš ta “prčevita” prednja nožica janjeta toliko glorificira.
- Vidija san da me niste svatili ozbiljno - uozbilji se Šuperba, spreman na velikodušno skidanje dobro zapečenog pečata tajne.
- Paprčnjak ili zaporak je prednja nogica, sami mišić, idealno mastan i slan. S njim se, paprčnjakom, je l’, zatvara trbušna šupljina. Unutra se posoli, a dok se peče, sva ta sol i mast, slast, sliva se direkt priko paprčnjaka. Pa ga onda, kako ste ono rekli, impregnira - upućuje nas stručnjak “janjičar”, po formalnom obrazovanju konobar.
On ne konobari, ali u ljetnoj sezoni po potrebi uskoči.
---
------
---
- Ima nas tridesetak šta radimo cilu godinu, normalno, sedmi i osmi misec i nami su udarni, sezona. Nema za nas ljetovanja, ali kad prođe sezonsko ludilo, volin sa familijon otić u Alpe. I onda gledan njihove ovce i janjad kako lipo šetaju po Alpama, pasu oko kuća, bazena. To je njima đir, a naš svit bi doživija ka neki problem, sramotu. Meni nema ničega lipšeg od toga prizora, ovaca koje pasu, janjadi. To je ka iz raja - sanjarski će Šuperba.
Ono što mu predstavlja potencijalni tehnički problem jest činjenica da sve manje seoskih domaćinstava uopće uzgaja ovce, janjce.
- Ima i mladih sa po petsto, sedamsto ovaca, ali sve manje onih koji se odlučuju na to iako plasman na tržište ne bi triba bit problem, pogotovo ako se uz meso janjadi malo radi i sir, i tako - drži naš sugovornik.
Paprčnjak s Moëtom
Naravno, nije lako naći ni pastire, idealno bi bilo da jedan čuva najviše sto grla, domeće pomalo mračno. Jer, nedajbože nestašice, janjetina će doći - po zlato. Cijena kilograma pečenoga već je dosegla 45 eura, normativ je 40 dekagrama po glavi. Delicija je već sad na rubu luksuza, pogotovo ako paprčnjak zalijete Moëtom ili nekim drugim skupim pićem.
---
---
- Normalno, imamo u ponudi Moët, ali najvolimo ponudit domaće vino, imamo i partnere iz susidstva, pjenušac rose Testament, vina Slamić, na primjer. Šta se tiče salate i kumpira, to sadimo mi, imamo veliki vrtal na otvorenom, nije plastenik. Sve sezonsko. Nabavimo i šparoge, uh, to je kombinacija čudo, janjetina sa šparogama - napominje.
Kako stranci reagiraju, tko najviše voli slasti s ražnja?
- Is, svi! Stranci se najviše vole slikavat, ima i onih koji se obrate sa vegetarijanstva. Dođu s društvom, kažu neće jist, pa malo probaju i vide šta je najveći gušt. Niko dobrom komadu pečenoga ne more odolit - smijulji se Šuperba.
Oprezno ga pitamo je li se njemu, nakon toliko desetljeća udisanja mirisa janjetine na sve načine spremljene (da ne govorimo o pojedenoj količini), možda ipak malo - zgadila?
---
---
- To je isto ka da me pitate jesu li mi se zgadile ženske - malko uvrijeđeno će naš domaćin.
- Gledajte, janjci su bitan faktor za život, svaki je drukčiji, ima osobnost. I svakome triba dat priliku - namiguje Jere Šuperba, iskusni “janjolog”, borac za kvalitetni paprčnjak, čovjek čije je koplje - ražanj.
---
- Čitali smo da je janjeće meso najmasnije. Najveći je indeks masti upravo u janjetini - bacamo kost našem domaćinu.
- Kakav indeks? Nema tu masti ni štetnosti. Ako
malo i ima, kapulica sve neutralizira - lukavo Jere prelazi s masti na (mladi) luk.
---
---
Zašto se lokal nakon niza godina, pa i desetljeća, preimenovao iz
‘Torcida’ u ‘Vicko’?
- Takva su vrimena. Neka malo promjene, ne škodi. Vicko je ćaća, on je sve stvorija - kazuje Šuperba junior.
---
---
‘Kad prođe sezonsko ludilo, volin sa familijon otić u Alpe. I onda gledan njihove ovce i janjad kako lipo šetaju, pasu oko kuća, bazena. Nema mi ničega lipšeg od toga prizora, ovaca koje pasu, janjadi. To je ka iz raja‘
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title=Bili smo u kultnom mjestu na Boraji gdje su utihnula stada janjaca: Ko pečenom more odolit? Obrate se i vegetarijanci
[metakey] => konoba vicko, janjetina, Jere Šuperba, janjetina na ražnju
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Dalmatinska mlada janjetina na ra\u017enju, priprema se i poslu\u017euje u restoranu Vicko u Donjem Polju kod \u0160ibenika
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Priprema ra\u017enja<\/p>","","","
Jere Superba, vlasnik restorana Vicko
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\u00a0Jere Superba, vlasnik restorana Vicko<\/p>","","","","","","","","
Dalmatinska mlada janjetina na ra\u017enju, priprema se i poslu\u017euje u restoranu Vicko u Donjem Polju kod \u0160ibenika
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Kapulica, mladi luk
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Ilirska riječ za ovcu je “delma” ili “dalma”; još jedan dokaz da je janjetina jedna od “najdalmatinskijih” živih simbola!
Ako nije pečena ili lešo, naravno.
Dakako, da bi bila prepoznata kao takva, izvorno dalmatinska, potrebno je nešto što se u svijetu suvremenih komunikacija zove “brending”. Jer, stara je mudrost da je važno “imati”, ali i “znati”. Stoga hvala Udruzi uzgajivača ovaca i koza Dalmacije koja je posredstvom Ministarstva poljoprivrede RH ishodila europsku zaštićenu oznaku izvornosti, upisanu u registar i zaštićenu na prostoru Europske unije.
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Mašala, uzgajivači!
Jedno od mjesta gdje, pak, janjetina stoluje desetljećima i kojemu nije potreban nikakav brending, pa čak ni plaćeni oglas jer usmena predaja seže daleko (pogotovo ako su usta puna mesne slasti) je objekt “Vicko” u Donjem Polju, nekoć poznat i kao “Torcida”. Tamo se električni ražnjevi vrte (skoro) neprekidno, malo ih je “brenzala” jedino sad već skoro zaboravljena korona, lijepi vrag da je nosi. Ionako je izbjegavala taj imunološki moćan kutak gdje kripost za konzumenta jamči najbolja dalmatinska janjetina, od koje zdravije ništa ne postoji!
’Poginila stada i stada’
Barem ako je o ekološki proizvedenom mesu riječ.
- Poginila su u nas stada i stada, na zadovoljstvo puno ljudi. Nema ništa prirodnije od toga - smatra Jere Šuperba (46), vlasnik restorana, nasljednik ostavštine koju je (od dva stola, veli) uhodao njegov otac Vicko. Do današnjih 150 plus 150 stolova (unutrašnji i vanjski prostor), što je bilanca koja govori o ozbiljnom pogonu. Otac i dandanas radi, najviše se brine za nabavu, da ne padne ispod standarda, da ostane na visini. Jer dobar janjac osnovni je repromaterijal njihovih delicija, i ako sirovina nije dobra, nema tog začina koji će “spasiti stvar”.
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- Sve je odavde, nešto gonimo i ozdol, sa Paga; to bude između dvanaestog i drugog miseca, janjetina je najbolja kad meso malo uzrija. Paški su janjci slatki, malešni, sam bi ih dva-tri izija! Kad se skine janje sa cice, bude “top”, ali onda može brzo oslabit, pa to triba odmah poklat. Inače su meni osobno najdraži oni od 18 do 24 kila, to izgleda puno, al znate kako to ide. Od 24 kila janjca, kad se očisti, ostane jedanaest, a kad se ispeče, svega sedam-osam kila. Paški janjac bude zaklan sa desetak kila, eto nakon pečenja ostane par kila - bezdušno sažima Šuperba računicu koja nekim čitateljima možda zvuči barbarski, ali prosječnom mesojedu je razumljiva ta “teorija opstanka”.
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Za one koji će primijetiti da “iza svakog vegana stoji razočarana baba”.
Janjci su, međutim, za života stopostotni vegani, zato u svoje meso ugrađuju svu ljekovitost travčica koje popasu, a tu - postoje važne finese.
- Mikrolokacija je važna, ne bi čovik virova koliko - podvlači Šuperba, koji za sebe voli reći da je “jedan od najvećih janjičara”.
- Na primjer, razlikuje se ona s Danila, di ima puno sočne trave, od janjetine koja je pasla na kršu, takoreć, hranila se u neimaštini. Nami je većina nabave od Utora do Benkovca, kažen, osobno mi je draže da mrvu uzrija, da je bila na travi. Stari sladokusci ne vole da “daje po mliku”, ali to je baš ka neko kušanje za iskusne. Većina ljudi ne bi ni primijetila razliku - namiguje “janjeći sommelier” Šuperba.
Drago mu je, dakako, da je dalmatinski janjac postao i službeno zaštićena kategorija pri EU registru, iako njegovu vrijednost već odavno znaju on i njegovi kolege pečenjari i restorateri. “Vicko” (po ćaći), ex “Torcida” postoji, naime, već 35 godina, a otprije nekog vremena gostiona (pardon, restoran) je “prišla cestu” pa se preko puta kao ugostiteljska ekstenzija nalazi sala za vjenčanja “Ave Marija”.
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Pašteta od ‘ladnog mesa
Naravno, janjetina na svakojake načine, pogotovo ražanj, specijalitet je kuće Šuperba.
- Imamo mi svašta: lešo, normalno, janjeće tripice, dolče garbo, svega blaga. Ranije smo radili čak i janjeću paštetu od mesa šta ostane, jer kad se oladi, ne valja, u stvari valja - ali to ljudi ne doživljavaju. Ali (vrući) ražanj je ražanj. Po meni, ništa slađe na ovom svitu nije od paprčnjaka s ražnja - napominje.
Pitamo ga zašto se baš ta “prčevita” prednja nožica janjeta toliko glorificira.
- Vidija san da me niste svatili ozbiljno - uozbilji se Šuperba, spreman na velikodušno skidanje dobro zapečenog pečata tajne.
- Paprčnjak ili zaporak je prednja nogica, sami mišić, idealno mastan i slan. S njim se, paprčnjakom, je l’, zatvara trbušna šupljina. Unutra se posoli, a dok se peče, sva ta sol i mast, slast, sliva se direkt priko paprčnjaka. Pa ga onda, kako ste ono rekli, impregnira - upućuje nas stručnjak “janjičar”, po formalnom obrazovanju konobar.
On ne konobari, ali u ljetnoj sezoni po potrebi uskoči.
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- Ima nas tridesetak šta radimo cilu godinu, normalno, sedmi i osmi misec i nami su udarni, sezona. Nema za nas ljetovanja, ali kad prođe sezonsko ludilo, volin sa familijon otić u Alpe. I onda gledan njihove ovce i janjad kako lipo šetaju po Alpama, pasu oko kuća, bazena. To je njima đir, a naš svit bi doživija ka neki problem, sramotu. Meni nema ničega lipšeg od toga prizora, ovaca koje pasu, janjadi. To je ka iz raja - sanjarski će Šuperba.
Ono što mu predstavlja potencijalni tehnički problem jest činjenica da sve manje seoskih domaćinstava uopće uzgaja ovce, janjce.
- Ima i mladih sa po petsto, sedamsto ovaca, ali sve manje onih koji se odlučuju na to iako plasman na tržište ne bi triba bit problem, pogotovo ako se uz meso janjadi malo radi i sir, i tako - drži naš sugovornik.
Paprčnjak s Moëtom
Naravno, nije lako naći ni pastire, idealno bi bilo da jedan čuva najviše sto grla, domeće pomalo mračno. Jer, nedajbože nestašice, janjetina će doći - po zlato. Cijena kilograma pečenoga već je dosegla 45 eura, normativ je 40 dekagrama po glavi. Delicija je već sad na rubu luksuza, pogotovo ako paprčnjak zalijete Moëtom ili nekim drugim skupim pićem.
---
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- Normalno, imamo u ponudi Moët, ali najvolimo ponudit domaće vino, imamo i partnere iz susidstva, pjenušac rose Testament, vina Slamić, na primjer. Šta se tiče salate i kumpira, to sadimo mi, imamo veliki vrtal na otvorenom, nije plastenik. Sve sezonsko. Nabavimo i šparoge, uh, to je kombinacija čudo, janjetina sa šparogama - napominje.
Kako stranci reagiraju, tko najviše voli slasti s ražnja?
- Is, svi! Stranci se najviše vole slikavat, ima i onih koji se obrate sa vegetarijanstva. Dođu s društvom, kažu neće jist, pa malo probaju i vide šta je najveći gušt. Niko dobrom komadu pečenoga ne more odolit - smijulji se Šuperba.
Oprezno ga pitamo je li se njemu, nakon toliko desetljeća udisanja mirisa janjetine na sve načine spremljene (da ne govorimo o pojedenoj količini), možda ipak malo - zgadila?
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- To je isto ka da me pitate jesu li mi se zgadile ženske - malko uvrijeđeno će naš domaćin.
- Gledajte, janjci su bitan faktor za život, svaki je drukčiji, ima osobnost. I svakome triba dat priliku - namiguje Jere Šuperba, iskusni “janjolog”, borac za kvalitetni paprčnjak, čovjek čije je koplje - ražanj.
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- Čitali smo da je janjeće meso najmasnije. Najveći je indeks masti upravo u janjetini - bacamo kost našem domaćinu.
- Kakav indeks? Nema tu masti ni štetnosti. Ako
malo i ima, kapulica sve neutralizira - lukavo Jere prelazi s masti na (mladi) luk.
---
---
Zašto se lokal nakon niza godina, pa i desetljeća, preimenovao iz
‘Torcida’ u ‘Vicko’?
- Takva su vrimena. Neka malo promjene, ne škodi. Vicko je ćaća, on je sve stvorija - kazuje Šuperba junior.
---
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‘Kad prođe sezonsko ludilo, volin sa familijon otić u Alpe. I onda gledan njihove ovce i janjad kako lipo šetaju, pasu oko kuća, bazena. Nema mi ničega lipšeg od toga prizora, ovaca koje pasu, janjadi. To je ka iz raja‘
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Tom Dubravec/Cropix
Dalmatinska mlada janjetina na ražnju, priprema se i poslužuje u restoranu Vicko u Donjem Polju kod Šibenika
Tom Dubravec/Cropix
Dalmatinska mlada janjetina na ražnju, priprema se i poslužuje u restoranu Vicko u Donjem Polju kod Šibenika
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17. svibanj 2024 10:45
