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Tijekom studija u Splitu, od 1982. do 1987., s prijateljem Tihomirom Eterovićem oplovio sam cijeli Jadran. Ispite na fakultetu bismo položili do kraja lipnja, a onda po mjesec dana bili na moru. Na jugu smo bili do ušća rijeke Bojane i granice s Albanijom. Na pučini smo dosegnuli Palagružu i Jabuku, dok smo po srednjem Jadranu i Kornatima bili kao doma. Rijekom Krkom smo došli do pod same slapove, jer je tada to bilo dopušteno.

Ničega nije falilo

Nakupilo se tu lijepih doživljaja, ali i nekih pogibeljnih situacija da se mogla knjiga napisati. Na nekim đitama se pridružio i Joško Topić, a na nekima Ivana Delić. Bila su to blažena vremena, kada Jadran nije bio ni blizu komercijaliziran i zasićen čarterom i stranim nautičarima kao što je to sada. I more i kraj su bili neusporedivo čistiji... I bili smo mladi. Plovili smo očevim Gradacom 580 s Farimanom od 5 KS, nismo imali struje, frižidera ni novca, ali nam ničega nije falilo.

Puno je godina već prošlo i možda nije svaka riječ baš točna, ali to vam je bilo otprilike ovako. Te 1986. smo se uputili ni manje ni više nego u – Trst. Dva-tri tjedna smo se polako vukli po Kornatima, čitavim Kvarnerom, pa oko Istre i konačno se vezali uz rivu u Izoli. Prošetali se, onako turistički, po mjestu, u obližnjoj okrepčivalnici nešto pojeli i onda se zaputili u lučku kapetaniju.

Kako ste došli ovamo?

"Dobar dan", pozdravimo odmah s vrata. "Evo dokumenti, mi bi u Trst." Rekli smo to kao da već pet godina držimo prugu Izola – Trst. Uzima kapetan naše dokumente i otvara ih, pa usput kaže da je carinski prijelaz malo dalje niz rivu, a onda mu se donja vilica objesi i bulji u dokumente od broda pa u nas dvojicu, pa opet u dokumente.

"Pa šta je ovo, kako ste vi došli ovamo!?" "Pomalo, iz vale u valu, bez priše i eto nas", ispalim ja frajerski i još učinim mot kao da to nije za nas ništa posebno. "Je l' vas itko kontrolirao, pregledao, kapetanija, milicija... itko?" Onda nastavi: "Pa vi niste smjeli napuštati područje lučke kapetanije Split! Tu vam lijepo piše sve, u knjižici plovila, jeste li vi ovo uopće pročitali!? Gdje vam je brod?" "Uz rivu, odmah tu", promrmljamo i sjednemo na sjedalice koje su bile u uredu. "Šta vi radite? Studirate! Svatko li ga danas studira! Medicinu!? Vi niste normalni!"

Sjedili smo kao pokisli, odgovarali tiho i smjerno kao pravi uhapšenici, što smo na neki način i bili. "Sada bi ja morao uzeti ključeve od broda i zabraniti vam isplovljavanje. Morali bi naći kamion i dogovoriti prijevoz broda do Splita. Pa ja vas ne smijem pustiti da se morem vraćate u Stari Grad."

Pokažite mi brod

"A vi bi u Trst!? Pa gdje vam je pamet", završio je svoju tiradu lučki kapetan i uzdahnuo. Valjda smo izgledali tako jadni da se kapetan nekako sažalio na nas. Pogledao nas je bez ljutnje i rekao: "Ajte mi pokazat taj vaš brod." Bez riječi došetamo i s rive pogledamo naš brod. Bio je taj brodić stvarno lijepo uređen. Litnja tenda, kužinica, aluminijski jarbol od šest metara, glavno jedro, flok... "Sidra imate, konopa, sigurnosnu opremu. pozicijska svjetla ispravna?" Klimamo glavama, je sve imamo, sve po propisu... Da je naš dobri kapetan znao kako mi od sve opreme imamo jedno sklopivo sidro i 30 metri konopa, a od svjetala samo petrolejski feralić...

"Ovako ćemo", zaključi kapetan. "Niti sam ja ikada vidio vas niti ste vi ikada ušli u moju kancelariju. Ako hoćete u Trst, tamo preko vam je autobusna stanica. Imate autobus svakog sata. Nikada i nikome ne smijete reći za ovo šta sam napravio. Dogovoreno?" Skoro smo se rasplakali od sreće. "Ne riskirajte, pazite na vrime, ovdje zna bura i ljeti, i ne plovite noću. Sretan put!" Vrati nam naše dokumente, okrene se i uputi k svojoj kancelariji.

Espadrile se raspale

Sutradan smo autobusom otišli u Trst, kupili nešto udica i peškafondi, krene... I pojeli najskuplju i, vjerojatno, najneukusniju pizzu u životu. Ja sam kupio i, tada popularne, platnene cipele espadrile, koje su se raspale prije nego smo se vratili doma. Ipak, to je bio dašak Europe. Tek ćemo nešto kasnije uvidjeti da se nisu samo espadrile raspale, kao i to da nije samo ta pizza bila nešto što ne valja u toj Europi.

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Za Otvoreno more pišu Tonka Alujević i Edo Šegvić, na pitanja čitatelja odgovara Alen Soldo. Pogledajte i predivne galerije Srđana Vrančića koji snima vrhunske podvodne fotografije, a na njima su najčešće tropske ribe i ostale egzotične morske životinje. 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Tijekom studija u Splitu, od 1982. do 1987., s prijateljem Tihomirom Eterovićem oplovio sam cijeli Jadran. Ispite na fakultetu bismo položili do kraja lipnja, a onda po mjesec dana bili na moru. Na jugu smo bili do ušća rijeke Bojane i granice s Albanijom. Na pučini smo dosegnuli Palagružu i Jabuku, dok smo po srednjem Jadranu i Kornatima bili kao doma. Rijekom Krkom smo došli do pod same slapove, jer je tada to bilo dopušteno.

Ničega nije falilo

Nakupilo se tu lijepih doživljaja, ali i nekih pogibeljnih situacija da se mogla knjiga napisati. Na nekim đitama se pridružio i Joško Topić, a na nekima Ivana Delić. Bila su to blažena vremena, kada Jadran nije bio ni blizu komercijaliziran i zasićen čarterom i stranim nautičarima kao što je to sada. I more i kraj su bili neusporedivo čistiji... I bili smo mladi. Plovili smo očevim Gradacom 580 s Farimanom od 5 KS, nismo imali struje, frižidera ni novca, ali nam ničega nije falilo.

Puno je godina već prošlo i možda nije svaka riječ baš točna, ali to vam je bilo otprilike ovako. Te 1986. smo se uputili ni manje ni više nego u – Trst. Dva-tri tjedna smo se polako vukli po Kornatima, čitavim Kvarnerom, pa oko Istre i konačno se vezali uz rivu u Izoli. Prošetali se, onako turistički, po mjestu, u obližnjoj okrepčivalnici nešto pojeli i onda se zaputili u lučku kapetaniju.

Kako ste došli ovamo?

"Dobar dan", pozdravimo odmah s vrata. "Evo dokumenti, mi bi u Trst." Rekli smo to kao da već pet godina držimo prugu Izola – Trst. Uzima kapetan naše dokumente i otvara ih, pa usput kaže da je carinski prijelaz malo dalje niz rivu, a onda mu se donja vilica objesi i bulji u dokumente od broda pa u nas dvojicu, pa opet u dokumente.

"Pa šta je ovo, kako ste vi došli ovamo!?" "Pomalo, iz vale u valu, bez priše i eto nas", ispalim ja frajerski i još učinim mot kao da to nije za nas ništa posebno. "Je l' vas itko kontrolirao, pregledao, kapetanija, milicija... itko?" Onda nastavi: "Pa vi niste smjeli napuštati područje lučke kapetanije Split! Tu vam lijepo piše sve, u knjižici plovila, jeste li vi ovo uopće pročitali!? Gdje vam je brod?" "Uz rivu, odmah tu", promrmljamo i sjednemo na sjedalice koje su bile u uredu. "Šta vi radite? Studirate! Svatko li ga danas studira! Medicinu!? Vi niste normalni!"

Sjedili smo kao pokisli, odgovarali tiho i smjerno kao pravi uhapšenici, što smo na neki način i bili. "Sada bi ja morao uzeti ključeve od broda i zabraniti vam isplovljavanje. Morali bi naći kamion i dogovoriti prijevoz broda do Splita. Pa ja vas ne smijem pustiti da se morem vraćate u Stari Grad."

Pokažite mi brod

"A vi bi u Trst!? Pa gdje vam je pamet", završio je svoju tiradu lučki kapetan i uzdahnuo. Valjda smo izgledali tako jadni da se kapetan nekako sažalio na nas. Pogledao nas je bez ljutnje i rekao: "Ajte mi pokazat taj vaš brod." Bez riječi došetamo i s rive pogledamo naš brod. Bio je taj brodić stvarno lijepo uređen. Litnja tenda, kužinica, aluminijski jarbol od šest metara, glavno jedro, flok... "Sidra imate, konopa, sigurnosnu opremu. pozicijska svjetla ispravna?" Klimamo glavama, je sve imamo, sve po propisu... Da je naš dobri kapetan znao kako mi od sve opreme imamo jedno sklopivo sidro i 30 metri konopa, a od svjetala samo petrolejski feralić...

"Ovako ćemo", zaključi kapetan. "Niti sam ja ikada vidio vas niti ste vi ikada ušli u moju kancelariju. Ako hoćete u Trst, tamo preko vam je autobusna stanica. Imate autobus svakog sata. Nikada i nikome ne smijete reći za ovo šta sam napravio. Dogovoreno?" Skoro smo se rasplakali od sreće. "Ne riskirajte, pazite na vrime, ovdje zna bura i ljeti, i ne plovite noću. Sretan put!" Vrati nam naše dokumente, okrene se i uputi k svojoj kancelariji.

Espadrile se raspale

Sutradan smo autobusom otišli u Trst, kupili nešto udica i peškafondi, krene... I pojeli najskuplju i, vjerojatno, najneukusniju pizzu u životu. Ja sam kupio i, tada popularne, platnene cipele espadrile, koje su se raspale prije nego smo se vratili doma. Ipak, to je bio dašak Europe. Tek ćemo nešto kasnije uvidjeti da se nisu samo espadrile raspale, kao i to da nije samo ta pizza bila nešto što ne valja u toj Europi.

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StoryEditorOCM

PRIČe ČITATELJAKako smo nekada davno krenuli Gradacom od Hvara do Trsta

Piše Toni Lučić Lavčević
9. ožujka 2021. - 20:00

Tijekom studija u Splitu, od 1982. do 1987., s prijateljem Tihomirom Eterovićem oplovio sam cijeli Jadran. Ispite na fakultetu bismo položili do kraja lipnja, a onda po mjesec dana bili na moru. Na jugu smo bili do ušća rijeke Bojane i granice s Albanijom. Na pučini smo dosegnuli Palagružu i Jabuku, dok smo po srednjem Jadranu i Kornatima bili kao doma. Rijekom Krkom smo došli do pod same slapove, jer je tada to bilo dopušteno.

Ničega nije falilo

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15. svibanj 2024 12:47